How to Buy a Pearl

When a foreign object such as a grain of sand gets wedged in an oyster, it is coated with several layers of a smooth, hard crystalline substance known as nacre. After some time, this natural process produces the luminescent gem called pearl.

Natural, or Oriental pearls are cultivated in the Persian Gulf and Indian Ocean, still most pearls sold today are cultured. The culturing process is an important industry in Japan developed during the first 30 years of the 20th century. Like precious stones, the quality of pearls varies dramatically depending on many factors. Like most of nature's creations, very few are meet the standard for fine jewelry.

Qualities of a Pearl

Lustre and nacre thickness: Lustre is established by surface brilliance and a deep seated glow. Additionally, the thickness of the iridescent layers surrounding a pearl's nucleus dramatically effect its lustre. Fine quality pearl lustre is created by heavy nacre and fine surface polish.

Surface: A precious pearl has a clean, smooth, blemish-free surface.

Shape: Precisely round pearls are the rarest and most expensive. Baroque pearls are asymmetrical in shape and can be lustrous and appealing as well. Additionally, Baroque pearls often cost less than perfectly round pearls.

Color: Cultured pearls come in a variety of hues ranging from rose to black. The color may be produced by the oyster or dyed by man. Dyed pearls are far less expensive than naturally colored Cultured pearls. No matter the color, it should appear to derive from deep within the pearl.

Size: Cultured pearls are measured by millimeters. They can vary in size beginning with a pearl smaller than one millimeter, as in the case of tiny seed pearls, or grow as large as twenty millimeters for a big South Sea pearl. Like any precious gem, the size of the pearl effects the price.

Name of Pearls

The name of a pearl is based on it's origin.

AKOYA - This variety is cultured in the islands of Japan and considered to be the most commonly used pearls. Their sizes range from 2 to 11 mm.

CHINESE FRESHWATER - Cultivated in mussels in lakes and rivers, these pearls grow in an stunning array of colors and shapes. Due to the large variety and increased availability, these pearls can be very affordable.  

SOUTH SEA PEARLS - These fine pearls are cultured from the silver or white-lip oyster found primarily in the northern waters of Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. They grow to extraordinary sizes ranging from 10 to 20 mm and are highly prized and precious.

TAHITIAN PEARLS - Cultured from the black-lip oyster in the waters of the South Pacific, these popular pearls come in larger sizes, from 10 to 20 mm, and a variation of colors including black, gray, burgundy, peacock and gold and appear mystical and dark.